![]() Seam welding all the various crap on the transmission tunnel, the cowl, the area the dash bar was, and the shock towers made a world of difference. My XP, with the windshield cut off, would creak badly if you pressed down on the dash bar, which replicated the factory bolt in with a straight tube welded at the ends, or the cowl area. I doubt you find the with/without a hardtop as it would be better compared to with/without rollbar+doorbars. Measurement of chassis flexing by lowering the jack and see how far that corner falls. Put 3 corners on jack stands and a jack on the 4th, that were all level. Hence why the hardtop will "seem" to do more. But they were both still floppy noodles.ĭoor bars are going to make the chassis stiffer but not do much for the floppy windshield header. Similar suspension setups on them at the time, just 99 1.8 power vs 1.6 powa. And if you want anecdotal evidence, the hardtop made my 99 seem as good as my 90 with the Hard Core rollbar. Of course that takes effort and a skill level of somewhere above "internet arm chair quarterback". I'd bet that will do more than a hardtop. Someone swearing by the "totally awesome sauce of the hardtop fixing all the worlds flex issues" go get the door opening seam welded and some of the other seams in the front area done. ![]() I'd imagine some of the cowl shake and NVH reduction from adding a hard top actually comes from the added weight/pendulum on the windshield header. And ones that get pretty creaky with lots of hard driving. ![]() The cowl and windshield area on a Miata are only a few sheets of folded metal held together with spot welds.
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